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K2 or MT. AUSTIN
GODWIN |
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| Other names/spellings |
Mount Godwin-Austen Chogori |
| Elevation (feet) |
28,250 |
| Elevation (meters) |
8,611 |
| Location |
Karakoram |
| Latitude |
35°ree; 53' N |
| Longitude |
76°ree; 31' E |
| Best Climbing Months |
June, July, August |
| Year First Climbed |
1954 |
| First Climber(s) |
Achille Compagnoni |
| Convenient Center(s) |
Skardu, Pakistan |
| Nearest Major Airport |
Islamabad, Pakistan |
| Importance |
2nd Highest Mountain In The World. |
| Best Trek Season |
April To October |
K2 peak, locally known by the name of “Chogo Ri”, which means "The Great Mountain", 8,611m, is the 2nd
highest mountain in the world. K2 is placed on the
Pakistan - China border in the mighty Karakoram range.
With no simple routes, K2 is known as the finest and most dangerous mountain in
the world. This is because of the massiveness in the size of this mountain and
the numerous unsuccessful attempts made on it by various expeditions, which
include mostly American expeditions.
About K2
K2 is a rocky mountain up to 6,000m, beyond which it becomes an ocean of snow. The traditional route to K2's base camp goes from Skardu, which is linked with Islamabad by a good road. From Skardu the route goes via Shigar-Dassu-Askole up to Concordia over the Baltoro glacier.
K2 was firstly discovered and measured by the Survey of India in 1856, and first named for English topographer Henry Godwin - Austen, who explored and surveyed the region.
K2 is taken from the first letter of Karakorum,
and the number indicates that it was the second peak in the range to be
measured. K2 was firstly climbed on July,31 1954 by Italian climbers team lead
by Ardito Desio and accompanying him were Lino Lacedelli and Achille Compagnoni.
A March 1987 measurement of K2 indicated that it might be higher than Everest,
but later that year, Everest was re-measured by a similar method and found to
indeed be 778 ft (237m) taller.
The Korakoram Range
Karakorum or Karakoram, mountain range, extending 480-kms, between the Indus
and Yarkant rivers, North Kashmir, South central Asia; South Easy extension of
the Hindu Kush mountain range. It covers disputed territory, held by China on
the north, India on the east, and Pakistan on the west. Karakorum's main range
has some of the world's highest peaks, including K2 called Mt. Godwin-Austen,
the second highest peak in the world.
Karakorum also has several of the world's largest glaciers. Its southern slopes
are the watershed for many tributaries of the Indus River. The mountains, which
are the greatest barrier between India and Central Asia, are crossed above the
perpetual snow line by two natural routes. Karakorum Pass (18,290 ft/5,575 m),
is the chief pass on the main Kashmir - China route. Another important pass,
Khunjerab (Kunjirap) Pass (15,420 ft/4,700m), is on the Pakistan - China route.
Henry Godwin-Austin
Godwin-Austen, was a English topographer and geologist. An officer in the
British army (1851-77), he was assigned to several government surveys in North
India, especially among the Himalayas. He explored and surveyed the region of
the Karakorum around K2, which is also known as Mt. Godwin-Austen after him.
K2 Expeditions & Attempts
It was probably for the first time in 1902 that an organized expedition of Oscar J.L. Eckenstein traveled to K-2 from Baltoro glacier. The expedition was without any guide. Its aim was to explore approaches to the mountain and possibly have a try on the peak. It was, however, harsh weather which prevented it from attempting the peak.
In 1909, a big Italian expedition under the
leadership of resolute Luigi Amadeo Giuseppe (Duke of Abruzzi) the grandson of
King Victor Emmanuel II of Italy, reconnoitred K2.
Two famous British mountaineers, Harold William Tilman and Eric Earle Shipton,
explored and surveyed the north face of K2 and its subsidiary glaciers in
1937.
In 1938, the American Alpine Club sponsored a reconnaissance party for a visit to K2 area. The party reached a height of 7925 meters after setting up eight camps.
The next year saw another American expedition on K2. It was led by Fritz Hermann Ernst Wiessner, a German-American chemist and mountaineer. The expedition, along with nine Sherpas, made very good progress on the already-identified south-east ridge.
Another American attempt on K2 was made in 1953. The expedition leader was Dr. Charles Houston, who had also led the 1938 American expedition on this peak.
In 1954, an Italian expedition came to Pakistan to try its luck on K2. It consisted of twelve climbers and four scientists and was led by veteran mountaineer, Professor Ardito Desio, who had come to these mountains with Italian expeditions before the World War II.
Additional information added by Stephen Burke:
With respect to the commentary on the 1954 Italian expedition that was the first to summit K2, it has since been proven that Compagnoni and Lacedelli did indeed have oxygen until they reached the summit of K2. The myth was dispelled through libel proceedings brought on by climber Walter Bonatti, who had been accused of sabotaging the expedition by keeping the oxygen for himself. The best evidence available in translated format can be found in the latest edition of The Mountains of My Life by Bonatti, or the short book entitled Trial on K2.