

Climbing Sherpa for Himalayan:
In 1982 the first ascent of Changtse was unofficially made on October 3, 1982 by Johan Takes of the Dutch Everest Expedition who were officially climbing Everest from the north side. However, Takes climbed Changste without a permit.
1982 The first official ascent of Changste with a permit was completed 11 days later on October 14 by five members of a German expedition Udo Zehetleitner, Paul Braun, Rudolf Frick, Ludwig Hösle and Martin Engler. The ascent was made via the four kilometre-long NE Ridge from the junction of the East Rongbuk Glacier and Changtse Glacier.
1983 The next ascent and also the first solo was made by Chilean climber Gino Casassa May 14, 1983 via the same route used by the Germans.
In1986 Changtse was climbed again by a large Chinese-Japanese expedition. This expedition of eight Japanese and 16 Chinese on the summit on May 10,11- 1986 again via the NE Ridge from the Changtse Glacier; which included the first ascent by a woman, Mrs. Gunsung.
1986 American climber Ed Webster made the first solo ascent via the SE face from the foot of the North Col on August 28, 1986. Most of this climb was done at night, taking advantage of more stable snow and ice conditions.
1987 Australian climbers Rob Turner and Glen Nash reached the summit on September 29, 1987 via the north face ice wall (Japanese 1986 route) despite high winds.
Changtse is located adjacently north of Everest hence the name Changtse which is Tibetan for north peak. 2 other well-known peaks of the Everest-group; Lhotse (4th highest mountain in world) and Nuptse mean respectively south and west-peak. Changtse was first ascended in October 1982; officially by a German expedition; but in fact it had already been climbed by the Dutch climber Johan Taks; only 11 days before. I bet the Germans must have thought the peak was still virgin.... Taks was a member of the 1982 Dutch Everest-expedition (Tibetan side; east Rongbuk), and climbed the mountain apparently without a permit against the will of the other expedition members. Nowadays the mountain receives little attention; only 1 or 2 (Chinese) additional expeditions have been listed.
Itinerary:
14 April 2011 Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu and transfer to hotel.
15 April 2011 Day 02: Kathmandu- Preparing Expedition
16 April 2011 Day 03: Kathmandu - Preparation Expedition
17 April 2011 Day 04: Drive to Kathmadu - Zangmu (2300m), O/N at hotel
18 April 2011 Day 05: Drive Nyalam
19 April 2011 Day 06 acclimatization
20 April 2011 Day 07: Drive Tingri (4250m), O/N at hotel
21 April 2011 Day 08: acclimatization
22 April 2011 Day 09: Tingri - Base camp 5200m.
23 April 2011 Day 10: Acclimatization
24 April 2011 Day 11: Base Camp to Middle camp
25 April 2011 Day 12: Middle camp - ABC
26 April -12 May 2011 Day 13-29: Climbing period Changtse (7550m.)
13 May 2011 Day 30: Advance Base Camp - Base camp
14 May 2011 Day 31: drive Base camp - Zhangmu
15 May 2011 Day 32: Drive Zhangmu - Kathmandu
16 May 2011 Day 33: Kathmandu
17 May 2011 Day 34: Kathmandu
18 May 2011 Day 35: Departure from Kathmandu.
Cost: (group minimum size 6 persons)
Per Person Euro 4500.00
Climbing Sherpa, Per Sherpa is Euro 2,500.00 (If required)
Cost include:
Cost does not include:
Extra service if required:
Russian oxygen 4 litters: US$ 450.00
Mask & Regular: US$ 500.00
Satellite phone: US$ 700.00 per set (Personal use from climber)
Duty Jeep: US$ 4000.00
Rescue Jeep: USD 700 Per Jeep