

07 September 2010
Mount Lhakpa Ri is the newly becoming famous expedition in Tibet; and many climbers have been attracted these days to this mountain climbing through Tibet side. It divides the upper east Rombuk and Kharta glacier. It is very close to Mount Everest and one feels him as equal to be climbed Mount Everest the moment, he reaches on the top of this mountain.
It was first climb by George Mallory who was on his way to the Everest Reconnaissance in 1921; and he had seen its North Col.
Bill Tilman made the second ascent during his Everest reconnaissance in 1936. The Third ascent was made by French Everest Summiteers Michelle Pelle in 1988. The Fourth ascent by Ken Mc Connell in 199. The present expedition teams are also using these same routes as the previous four expedition teams had used in the past.
The Expedition starts from Kathmandu- Zhangmu-Nyalam-Tingri and Everest Base Camp (Lhakpa RI Base camp) 5200m. After that you have to spend a few days for acclimatization. After this base camp, you should start your expedition ahead towards the Middle camp 5780m, with the preparation of loading yaks and expedition crews. Then you have to take a night’s rest in this middle camp. Continuing ahead to this track you reach at the Advance Base camp, which is situated at the height of 6400m.
After this point, you may feel some altitude sickness; and in case of this you should take a couple of day’s rest there. After that climbing up ahead you reach almost at the level of East Rombuk Glacier to the Rophu La from where fantastic views of Makalu & Kanchanjunga are seen. Then you get a good look of your route up to the Lhakpa Ri.
From ABC, start early in the morning; and you should go crossing the Rongbuk glacier. There are few crevasses and slopes from the Rongbuk and Kharta glacier and they are relatively low angled which are linked by the Lhak Pa pass 6848m; and it is just to the North of Lhakpa Ri until you reach at the very foot of the slope, leading to you to the North ridge of the Summit, the routes are 20 –30 degrees vertical elevations. This route to climb is not so hard but the vertical way is very long. You have use main rope with the group of 4-6 climbers at this time here. Following the way of the North ridge on the other side you see Kharta glacier and the views of North Col of Everest. The same way of the ridge leads up to the Summit of Lhakpa Ri. From the Lhakpa Ri, a very beautiful views of above the 8000m. High Mountains are envisioned; and also the good panoramic views of small mountains down below there can be seen.
After reaching the summits, on your way back you can choose the different route to get down via Lhasa the capital of old city of Tibet. And this new route may give you another enthusiastic and charming feeing inside.
Itinerary:
04 September 2010 Day 1: Arrival in Kathmandu - Transfer to Hotel.
05 September 2010 Day 2: Kathmandu (Prepare Expedition)
06 September 2010 Day 3: Kathmandu
07 September 2010 Day 4: Drive to Kodari - Cross border & Zhangmu
08 September 2010 Day 5: Zhangmu - Nyalam
09 September 2010 Day 6: Nyalam - Tingri
10 September 2010 Day 7: Tingri Acclimatized
11 September 2010 Day 8: Tingri - Lhakpa Ri Base Camp
12 September 2010 Day 9: Lhakpa Ri Base Camp
13 September 2010 Day 10: Lhakpa Ri Base Camp - Middle Camp
14 September 2010 Day 11: Middle Camp - ABC Camp
15-27 September 2010 Day 12-24: Climbing period of Lhakpa Ri
28 September 2010 Day 25: Base camp to Shigatse
29 September 2010 Day 26: Shigatse - Gyantse
30 September 2010 Day 27: Gyantse - Lhasa
01 October 2010 Day 28: Lhasa
02 October 2010 Day 29: Lhasa to Kathmandu flight & transfer to Hotel.
03 October 2010 Day 30: Kathmandu
04 October 2010 Day 31: Final Departure.
Cost: (Minimum 5 person)
Per Person USD 6000.00
Climbing Sherpa, Per Sherpa is USD 3,500.00 (If required)
Cost includes:
Cost does not include:
Extra service if required:
Russian oxygen 4 litters: US$ 400.00
Mask & Regular: US$ 500.00
Satellite phone: US$ 700.00 per set (Personal use from climber)
Duty Jeep: US$ 4000.00
Authorization - China Mountaineering Association | Authorization Certificate - Nepal