Nepal Expedition

Spring 2008 --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- Everest Everest South FB Kanchanjunga Lhotse Makalu Manalsu Dhaulagiri Churen Himal Pumori Annapurna South Annapurna IV Kumbhakarna Gyajikhang Ganesh Himal Kang Guru Kanjiroba Lhakpa Ri Kirat Chuli Sita Chuchura Tawoche-Amadablam Tilicho Tripura Thamserku Tukche Dorje Lakpa Chamlang Baruntse Api Himal Amadablam Amadablam - Pumori Amotsang Peak Himlung Jongsang Pathibhara Puthachuli
Autumn 2008 --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- Kanchanjunga Lhotse Makalu Manalsu Dhaulagiri Churen Himal Annapurna South Annapurna IV Kumbhakarna Himlung Kirat Chuli Kang Guru Kanjiroba Lhakpa Ri Sita Chuchura Tawoche-Amadablam Tilicho Tripura Thamserku Tukche Dorje Lakpa Chamlang Baruntse Api Himal Amadablam Amadablam - Pumori Amotsang Peak Ganesh Himal Gyajikhang Jongsang Pathibhara Puthachuli

Tibet Expedition

Spring 2009 --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- Tibet Side Everest Cho-oyu Cho-oyu-Fullboard Shishapangma Shishapangma-FB Shishapangma-Cho Gurla Mandata Naimonanyi Nojin Kangsang
Autumn 2008 --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- Everest North Col Shishapangma Cho-oyu

Pakistan Expedition

Spring 2008 --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- K-2 Expedition Broad Peak Diran Peak Gasherbrum II Expd. Mustagata Nanga Parbat Spantik Peak Tirich Mir Trango Tower

Nepal Trekking

Annapurna Region --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- Annapurna Base Camp Annapurna Circuit Annapurna Coca Cola Damodar Kund Dhaulagiri Ghorepani Jomsom Mardi Himal L/W Mustang Mustnag Narphu Valley Panorama Royal Trek Everest Region --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- Chola Pass Everest Base Camp Everest 23 Days Everest 25 Days Mani Rimdu Thame ThyanbocheMonastery Phaplu - Lukla Renju Pass Tashi Lapcha Dolpo Region --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- Choren Dolpo/Kagmara Shey Gompa Dolpo-Shey-Gompa Phoksundo Rara - Jumla Langtang Region --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- Ganesh Himal Langtang/Goshainkund Helambu Langtang Shivapuri Makalu/Kanchanjungha --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- Mera - Arun Valley Chainpur Kanchanjunga BC Makalu Base Camp Salpa Pass Restricted Area --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- LarkeLa - Manaslu B.C.

Tour

Nepal 2008 --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- Kathmandu(14n/15d) Mountain Flight Pokhara
Tibet 2008 --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- Kailasa Tour Kailasa - Lhasa Tour Lhasa Tour Tibet Tour Adventure Kailash Everest BC - Lhasa Kailash - Everest BC Kailash Tour Kailash - Simikot Tour Kailash - India Tour Lhasa-Everest-Kailash Tibet Tour (7n/8d)

Peak Climbing

Spring 2008 --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- Chulu West Dromo Peak Ganja La Chuli Hinchuli Island Peak Kwangde Lobuche Mera peak Pisang Peak Pokalde Peak Ramdung Go Singu Chuli Tharpu Chuli
Autumn 2008 --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- Chulu West Dromo Peak Ganja La Chuli Hinchuli Island Peak Kwangde Lobuche Mera peak Pisang Peak Pokalde Peak Ramdung Go Singu Chuli Tharpu Chuli

Festivals

Nepal 2008 --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- Mani Rrimdu -Thame Mani R. - Thengboche Tiji Mustang
Tibet 2008 --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- Saga - Dawa Festival
Bhutan 2008 --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- Jambay - Festival Paro - Festival Tangbi - Festival Tshechu - Festival

Full Board 2008

Full Board 2008 --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- Everest N. C. Exped. Everest S. C. Exped. Cho Oyu Exped. Shisapangma Exp.

Shishapangma 8035m and Cho oyu 8201m expedition autumn 2008

27 August 2008

Cho Oyu 8201m. the 6th Highest Peak in the world
Shishapangma 8035m. the 14th Highest Peak in the world

Shishapangm is one of the very lovely mountain of China, which lies in the autonomous region called the Tibet of China, only a very few people in the world had idea about the Shishapangma before the Chinese opened Tibet to the western summiteers in 1978. The Tibetans regard it as the very holy mountain. It is the youngest mountain among the peaks situated above the height of 8000m, and there are only fourteen mountains above in the 8000m high Himalayan ranges. Till to date many climbers have succeeded to approach on its apex.

Route

The North West normal route to Shishapangma takes us up easy angled snow slopes up to 35 degrees with one steeper section. The necessary lines will be fixed and placed on the steeper or crevassed sections. Following our acclimatization in Zhangmu & Nyalam, we will arrive at the base camp (5000m) to make ready our final preparations and acclimatization walks. Yaks transport our expedition gear from Base camp 5000m, to ABC at 5,400m. Three further camps will be place en-route.

Camp 1 - 6,730m – After 6-7 hours walk we reach in camp 2 through crossing many snowy slopes by fixing ropes in the places of crevassed.

Camp 2 - 7,045m – After 5-6 hours we reach camp 3 via steep ascent leading to very gentle ground below the northwest ridge.

Camp 3 - 7,400m – From Camp 3, it takes 9-12 hours to reach on the summit. The situation of the groups/climbers’ progress and the condition of the physical fitness; and also the favorable condition of the weather depends the climbing ahead.

Some times the extra additional days are also required for acclimatization at different places until climbers succeeds the summit. If the climber succeeds the mountaineering early than the scheduled tenure they may leave the base camp before the prescribed time as well.

Austrian first climbs Cho Oyu in 1954. The Indian and German team also climbed this peak in 1958 and 1964 respectively. Till to date many expedition teams have successfully reached on its summit. The year 2004 was regarded as the Golden jubilee of this Cho Oyu Mountain in the field of expedition. The golden jubilee ceremony was organized by Nepal Mountaineering Association with grand fanfare and jubilantly. There were about 400 climbers from different region of the World during this golden jubilee ceremony and most of them made the summit.

Most of the Cho Oyu expedition teams climb from Tibet side due the easy technique-climbing route from there. Since 1998, our company “Monterosa Treks and Expedition" is also conducting the expedition from Tibet side. We also had our teams to the Golden jubilee Cho Oyu Expedition in autumn 2004.

Meeting and climbing information:

Expedition begins when you arrive to Kathmandu where you meet our staffs of Monterosa Treks & Expedition in the airport and transfer you to hotel. Next day, we make introduction section with other climbing members & Expedition crews. Since then we make your Tibet visa and other necessary document for Cho Oyu Expedition.

After 3 day, we drive you towards Nepal-Tibet border up to the Friendship Bridge through Arnico Highway; where the Chinese liaison officer and Chinese transportation meet us there. The expedition gears go by truck but the members there Travel by Land cruiser 4wd or with comfortable Minibus. We take time to acclimatize with one night at Zhangmu (2300m) and two nights at Nylam (3750m), which also gives us the chance to trek up high hills for acclimatization. 

Next day we drive to Tingri (4350m) where we spend further two nights acclimatizing. Then we drive Tingri to Base camp 5000m along the rough way with jerking & bouncing experience through grassy plain which leads up to the Chinese base camp.

We set up our camp at Chinese Base Camp and stay two nights or more, which depends on the feeling of our members. We also make schedules of the yaks by that time. Base camp is a temporary but comfortable affair with Nepali cook and dining tent. Now the two-day walk towards the advance base camp (ABC) begins.

ABC is in the heart of the Himalayas at 5700m; surrounded by celestial peaks. There is also the high pass called Nangpa La nearby which, an old but still used yak track trading route between Nepal and Tibet exists.

From ABC, we can see the superb scene of Cho Oyu. This is the main base camp and we plan to stay there for the longer duration also to look the favorable situation for the expedition. Every person gets his or her own tent. Our Service will be full board up to ABC and after that the climbers should manage all services by themselves.

From ABC it is several hours of tough walking on a vague path over moraine-covered glacier to the start of the mountaineering properly.

Camp 1 is either situated more or less on the ridge at 6400m and the real mountaineering starts from here. The ridge is now soft and easy enough for climbing, then it broadens out and you should climb successive huge steps, several of which probably require fixing a rope up there. You should fix a new rope in co-operation with other members on the mountain. Normally one rope is used for ascent and another for descent. Although the route is crevassed but normally these creates no problems

Camp 2 is on the edge of a large plateau at 7125m although you can carefully assess where to put the rope. Depending on conditions and fitness you may attempt the summit from here, or you may establish a light Camp 3 across the plateau and up on a minor ridge at 7550m. Above Camp 3, there are two rocky steps where you fix another set of ropes prior to our summit ascent.

Finally, you will start early in the morning from camp 3 for summit. Above the rock bands, the slopes are still steep and you may take a line to fix there, depending on conditions, however once on the crest of this ridge the terrain is straightforward although it is a long haul to the summit plateau. 

The panorama is breathtakingly magnificent, including Everest 8848m, Lhotse 8501m, Nuptse 7855m, Chamlang 7319m, Ama Dablam 6856m and other peaks of the Everest region to the east and south. To the west, there are the Melungtse and Gauri Sankar massifs and to the north, there is all Tibet area. It is normal to descend to Camp 2 from summit and to continue down to the ABC.

Legend

Regarding to the name of this Cho Oyu, the legend says, in Tibetan language, Chomo means the goddess and Yu means the turquoise. So adding these two words, it was called Cho Oyu. Also it is called the “Turquoise Goddess” as per the Tibetan dialect. Another derivation of the name is called it as the bald god as well.

Shishapangma 8012m. and Cho Oyu 8201m Expedition

Itinerary:

24 August 2008 Day 01: Arrive in Kathmandu & Transfer to Hotel
25 August 2008 Day 02: Kathmandu & prepar expedition
26 August 2008 Day 03: Katmandu
27 August 2008 Day 04: Drive Kodari – Zhangmu – hotel
28 August 2008 Day 05: Drive to Nyalam
29 August 2008 Day 06: Drive to Base camp
30 August 2008 Day 07: Prepare for Advance base camp
31 August 2008 Day 08: Trekking to Middle camp
01 September 2008 Day 09: Trekking to advance Base camp
02 - 24 September 2008 Day 10-32: Climbing Peried of Shishapangma 8012m.
25 September 2008 Day 33: ABC - Chinese BC – drive to Tngri
26 September 2008 Day 34: Drive to Base camp
27 September 2008 Day 35: Base camp to ABC
28 September 2008 Day 36: ABC
29 September - 08 October 2008 Day 37-46 Climbing Period of Cho Oyu Expedition
09 October 2008 Day 47: ABC to Base camp
10 October 2008 Day 48: Base camp to Zhangmu
11 October 2008 Day 49: Drive to Kathmandu
12 October 2008 Day 50: Kathmandu
13 October 2008 Day 51: Final Departure

Climbing Equipment List | More Information | Some technical information

Cost: Group joining basis

1 Per Person Euro 16,000.00
2 Persons, Per person Euro 13,000.00
3 Persons, Per person Euro 12,000.00
4-6 Persons, Per Person Euro 11,000.00
7-10 Persons, Per Person Euro 10,000.00
11 or more persons, Per Person Euro 9,000.00

Climbing guide for each Mountain  Euro 2500.00   Per guide

Cost includes:

1. 5 nights accommodation in Kathmandu with bed & breakfast.
2. Expert professional Nepalese expedition crews like Cook, Kitchen boy, ABC guide and mountaineering gears till to the ABC are provided; and our crews get all expedition facilities from our office itself.
3. Tibet visa & Travel Permit for the expedition crew
4. Full board hotel in route to Tibet side Zhangmu, Nyalam - Tingri (bed- breakfast, Lunch, dinner)
5. Base Camp - Advance Base Camp 1 tent for 1 person (North Face brand)
6. Dining tent, Table, Chairs, toilet tent, Mess tent & Kitchen tent
7. Per person’s (40 KG) Load is carried by the Yak till to the from Base Camp to ABC
8. Per person’s (30 KG) Load is carried by the Yak on the way back to the ABC to BC
9. Kathmandu - Zhangmu – Base Camp - tinggri – base camp - Zhangmu (vice versa) are provided the Mini bus/Jeep for the members & Truck for the equipment
10. Peak permit for Shishapangma 8035m. & Cho Oyu
11. Tibet Visa & Travel permit
12. Liaison officer & Interpreter
13. Nepalese crew' insurance
14. ABC - Oxygen for Emergency but you must pay for its use.
15. Satellite phone (Pay call).
16. Gamow bag (Life saving device in case of altitude sickness).
17. Welcome dinner

Cost does not include:

1. Air travel to and from Kathmandu.
2. Laundry, postage, telephone calls, and all other items of personal nature.
3. Entry visa and Re-entry visa for Nepal.
4. International departure tax.
5. Personal Expenses.
6. Medical and rescue insurance.
7. Personal Climbing equipment.
8. Bar bills & Beverage.
9. Garbage Deposit Euro 300 (Sharing of the total person) Deposit fee will be not refund if clients (climber) don't take back their garbage.
10. Medicine and first aid expenses
11. Walkie-Talkie.
12. Extra yak, Per Yak’s Euro 100.00 will be charge till to 50KG load.

Extra service if required:
Russian oxygen 4 litters: Euro 3 00.00 
Mask & Regular: Euro 350.00
Satellite phone : Euro 5 00.00 per set (Personal use from climber)
Film Permit : Euro 14000.00 (Small Portable movie camera is free)
Duty Jeep : Euro 3000.00

Shishapangma & Cho Oyu Autumn 2006 | Spring 2007

Authorization - China Mountaineering Association | Authorization Certificate - Nepal