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Monterosa Treks &  Expedition

Full Board up to the Everest North face 8848m. Expedition

Everest North Col
Fixed Departure
28 August 2008

Expedition begins when you arrive to Kathmandu where you meet the staff of Monterosa Treks & Expedition in the airport and transfer you to hotel. Next day, we have introduction section with other climbing members & Expedition crews. Since then we make your Tibet visa and other necessary document for the Everest Expedition.

After 3 day, we drive you towards Nepal-Tibet border up to Friendship Bridge through Arnico Highway, where the Chinese liaison officer and Chinese transport meet us. The expedition gears go by truck while we travel by Land cruiser 4wd. We take time to acclimatize with one night at Zhangmu (2300m) and two nights at Nylam (3750m), which also gives us the chance to trek up high hills for acclimatization.

Everest TentsNext day we drive to Tingri (4350m) where we spend further two nights acclimatizing. Then we drive Tingri to Base camp 5400m along rough way with jerking & bouncing through grassy plain leading up to Everest BC which is also called Chinese base camp.

We set up our camp at Chinese Base Camp and stay two nights or more, depending on how everyone feels. We also make schedules of the yaks by that time. Base camp is a temporary but comfortable affair with Nepali cook and dining tent. Now the two-day walk towards advanced base camp (ABC) begins.

After waking 2 days, we reach to ABC 6400m along with the Yaks. From ABC the route goes to the east Rongbuk (Everest Base) glacier and after that there is an easy snow slopes to the North Col at 7000m. Where camp 1 is situated on snow.

After that there is a long reasonably angled snow slopes to climb 7400m. Where we should put camp 2 on snow. The route from Camp 2 to camp 3 is the series of the rocks which is little bit difficult, but again there is a very easy terrain to walk ahead to set up camp 3. This camp 3 is at the height of 7900m on the rock.

The route again goes through a series of rocky climbs, and then there is a median angled snow slopes where we have to climb on mixed rocks and snow until we reach camp 4 at 8400m. Now this camp is on the rock but some times ago it was snow covered. To reach there, we have to fix ropes on climbing but there are safety lines which provide you safe place when you are tired and wind is blowing. This route is mostly very windy especially between camp 2 to camp 3.

Camp 4 is the last camp for Everest summit from North East Ridge. Now route is mixed rocks and snow steps. This step is quite steep in many places so you require very considerable care for yourself, for your clothing and oxygen equipments.

After that, the North East Ridge is wide but we have to climb through small steps with little bit height until we go ahead where we fix rope. Above there the climbing is little bit exposed but it is easy again to reach ahead in the second steps. After the second steps the route is series of small nude ridge which is some times covered with snow.

After that route with large boulder where we should use ladder to climb ahead. Again after that section of the route, we should fix rope. Above these steps, route is relatively easy with gentle ground until we reach at the third steps. Now to go head it is not series as the previous steps but we should use the fixed rope to the Col before the final summit of snow slopes. Again there are quite steep and fixed ropes to go ahead to the buttressed rocks from where there is a short section of corniced ridge to reach on the Summit of Everest.

 
Full Board up to the Everest North face 8848m Expedition
Fixed Departure
28 August 2008
 

topItinerary:

25 August 2008 Day 01 Arrive Kathmandu & transfer hotel
26 August 2008 Day 02 Kathmandu
27 August 2008 Day 03 Kathmandu
28 August 2008 Day 04 Drive Zhangmu, [ Hotel ]
29 August 2008 Day 05 Drive to Naylam, [ Hotel ]
30 August 2008 Day 06 Rest Day for Acclimatized
31 August 2008 Day 07 Drive to Tingri
01 September 2008 Day 08 Rest Day for Acclimatized 
02 September 2008 Day 09 Drive Chinese Base Camp, [ Base Camp Photo ]
03 September 2008 Day 10 Chinese Base Camp 5400m.
04 September 2008 Day 11 Chinese Base Camp
05 September 2008 Day 12 Chinese Base Camp to Middle Camp load carry by Yaks, [ Middle Camp ]
06 September 2008 Day 13 Middle Camp - Advance Base Camp of Everest 6400m. [ ABC Photo ]
07 September - 13 October 2008 Day 14-50 Climbing Period of Everest 8848m. [ Route Map ]
14 October 2008 Day 51 ABC - Base Camp
15 October 2008 Day 52 Drive to Tingri
16 October 2008 Day 53 Drive to Zhanmu exit Border and drive to Kathmandu .
17 October 2008 Day 54 Kathmandu
18 October 2008 Day 55 Final Departure

 
topCost includes:
 
  1. 5 nights hotel in Kathmandu with bed & breakfast (3 star Level).
  2. Expedition Nepalese crews: Professional Cook, Kitchen boy, at Base Camp- Advance Base Camp. Equipment) allowances, daily ways, lodging & food expedition en-route
  3. Tibet visa & Travel Permit for expedition crew.
  4. Full board hotel in route Tibet side (bed & breakfast, Lunch, dinner).
  5. Chinese Base Camp - Advance Base Camp 1 tent for 1 person.
  6. Dining tent, Table & Chairs, toilet tent, Mess tent, Kitchen tent & Expedition crew tent.
  7. Per person (80 KG) Load Base Camp to Advanced Base Camp by Yak
  8. Per person (50 KG) Advanced Base Camp to Base camp by Yak
  9. Kathmandu - Zhangmu - BC - Zhangmu - Kathmandu [ Mini-Bus, Jeep & Truck].
  10. Peak permit for Everest 8848m. North Col expedition
  11. Tibet Visa & Travel permit for all climbing member
  12. Liaison officer & Interpreter
  13. Nepalese crew' insurance.
  14. 2 climber-climbing Tents North Face or other tents-Camp 1, camp 2, camp 3,Camp 4
  15. If single climber- 4 climbing tents as for Camp 1, camp 2, camp 3 & camp 4
  16. For 2 climber = 1 climbing Sherpa
  17. Single climber - 1 climbing Sherpa.
  18. 6 Oxygen (24 Litters) Mask &Regulator - Per climber
  19. Climbing food, cooking Primus Gas & stop for cooking above the ABC.
  20. Tents for climbing Sherpa ABC, Camp 1 Camp 2 Camp 3 & camp 4
  21. Custom clearance in Kathmandu for expedition Cargo.
  22. ABC - Emergency Oxygen, Mask & regularregular
  23. Satellite phone (Pay call)
  24. Gamow bag (Life saving device incase of altitude sickness).
  25. Expedition T-short with Expedition name.
  26. Welcome dinner
Cost does not include:
 
  1. Air travel to and from Kathmandu.
  2. Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu.
  3. Laundry, postage, telephone calls, and all other items of personal nature.
  4. Entry visa and Re-entry visa for Nepal.
  5. International departure tax.
  6. Personal Expenses.
  7. Medical and rescue insurance.
  8. Personal Climbing equipment.
  9. Bar bills & Beverage.
  10. Rescue Jeep USD 700
  11. Medicine and first aid for expedition.
  12. Garbage Deposit USD 500 (Sharing of the total person) Deposit fee will be not refund if clients (climber) don't take back their garbage.
  13. Walkie-Talkie.
  14. If using climbing Sherpa-summit bonus for climbing Sherpa, If they summit with climber(s) each Sherpa minimum USD 1000.00 provides by climber.
 
Extra service if required:top

Russian oxygen 4 litters US$ 400.00
Mask & Regular US$ 400.00
Satellite phone US$ 700.00 per set
Film Permit US$ 4500.00

 
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