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Shishapangma-Chooyu Expedition Autumn 2009
Mount Shishapangm is one of the very lovely mountain of China, which lies in the autonomous region called the Tibet of China, only a very few people in the world had idea about the Shishapangma before the Chinese opened Tibet to the western summiteers in 1978. The Tibetans regard it as the very holy mountain. It is the youngest mountain among the peaks situated above the height of 8000m, and there are only fourteen mountains above in the 8000m high Himalayan ranges. Till to date many climbers have succeeded to approach on its apex.
Route
The North West normal route to Shishapangma takes us up easy angled snow slopes up to 35 degrees with one steeper section. The necessary lines will be fixed and placed on the steeper or crevassed sections. Following our acclimatization in Zhangmu & Nyalam, we will arrive at the base camp (5000m) to make ready our final preparations and acclimatization walks. Yaks transport our expedition gear from Base camp 5000m, to ABC at 5,400m. Three further camps will be place en-route.
Camp 1 - 6,730m - After 6-7 hours walk we reach in camp 2 through crossing many snowy slopes by fixing ropes in the places of crevassed.
Camp 2 - 7,045m - After 5-6 hours we reach camp 3 via steep ascent leading to very gentle ground below the northwest ridge.
Camp 3 - 7,400m - From Camp 3, it takes 9-12 hours to reach on the summit. The situation of the groups/climbers' progress and the condition of the physical fitness; and also the favorable condition of the weather depends the climbing ahead.
Some times the extra additional days are also required for acclimatization at different places until climbers succeeds the summit. If the climber succeeds the mountaineering early than the scheduled tenure they may leave the base camp before the prescribed time as well.
Cho Oyu 8201m Expedition
Austrian first climbs Cho Oyu in 1954. The Indian and German team also climbed this peak in 1958 and 1964 respectively. Till to date many expedition teams have successfully reached on its summit. The year 2004 was regarded as the Golden jubilee of this Cho Oyu Mountain in the field of expedition. The golden jubilee ceremony was organized by Nepal Mountaineering Association with grand fanfare and jubilantly. There were about 400 climbers from different region of the World during this golden jubilee ceremony and most of them made the summit.
Most of the Cho Oyu expedition teams climb from Tibet side due the easy technique-climbing route from there. Since 1998, our company "Monterosa Treks and Expedition" is also conducting the expedition from Tibet side. We also had our teams to the Golden jubilee Cho Oyu Expedition in autumn 2004.
We set up our camp at Cho Oyu Base Camp after Shishapangma Expedition and it takes 2 days drive from Shishapangma Base camp to Cho Oyu base camp. You are staying 1 night or more, which depends on the feeling of our members. We also make schedules of the yaks by that time. Base camp is a temporary but comfortable affair with Nepali cook and dining tent. Now the two-day walk towards the advance base camp (ABC) begins.
ABC is in the heart of the Himalayas at 5700m; surrounded by celestial peaks. There is also the high pass called Nangpa La nearby which, an old but still used yak track trading route between Nepal and Tibet exists.
From ABC, we can see the superb scene of Cho Oyu . This is the main base camp and we plan to stay there for the longer duration also to look the favorable situation for the expedition. Every person gets his or her own tent. Our Service will be full board up to ABC and after that the climbers should manage all services by themselves.
From ABC it is several hours of tough walking on a vague path over moraine-covered glacier to the start of the mountaineering properly.
Camp 1 is either situated more or less on the ridge at 6400m and the real mountaineering starts from here. The ridge is now soft and easy enough for climbing, then it broadens out and you should climb successive huge steps, several of which probably require fixing a rope up there. You should fix a new rope in co-operation with other members on the mountain. Normally one rope is used for ascent and another for descent. Although the route is crevassed but normally these creates no problems
Camp 2 is on the edge of a large plateau at 7125m although you can carefully assess where to put the rope. Depending on conditions and fitness you may attempt the summit from here, or you may establish a light Camp 3 across the plateau and up on a minor ridge at 7550m. Above Camp 3, there are two rocky steps where you fix another set of ropes prior to our summit ascent.
Finally, you will start early in the morning from camp 3 for summit. Above the rock bands, the slopes are still steep and you may take a line to fix there, depending on conditions, however once on the crest of this ridge the terrain is straightforward although it is a long haul to the summit plateau.
The panorama is breathtakingly magnificent, including Everest 8848m, Lhotse 8501m, Nuptse 7855m, Chamlang 7319m, Ama Dablam 6856m and other peaks of the Everest region to the east and south. To the west, there are the Melungtse and Gauri Sankar massifs and to the north, there are all Tibet area. It is normal to descend to Camp 2 from summit and to continue down to the ABC.
Climbing Sherpa for Himalayan:
We facilitate highly professional, well trained and qualified climbing Sherpas for the your expeditions. Many climbers avoid Sherpa guides for the climbing, so because of this, they have been found to facing many hindrances on their way. If you take Sherpas along with you on the expedition, they are very useful in your each and every step of support, which makes your climbing easier to restore your strained energy; and it gives you vigorous strength for your next day's climbing. Most of the groups, who have gone with the Sherpa guides on the expedition, is found to be succeeded as per our past experiences. So we suggest you to operate your expeditions along with the Sherpa guides.
Booking:
IIf you like to book us for the expedition you can log on to our web http://www.monterosa-nepal.com , for online booking you should deposit us USD 500.00 bank transfer in our bank account in advance which enables you for your secured seats. After this deposition, your expedition will be final confirmed; and in case if you cancel the expedition, the deposition will not be refunded. This is the terms and conditions of our company.
Mount Shishapangma 8012m. & Cho Oyu 8201m Expedition
02 September 2009
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Note: After the Expedition, Tipping system is well come for expedition crews from your generosity if you are happy with the staffs of the company. We wish you a happy and successful climbing. Our motto is to appease our clients. Thanks. |
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