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Peak Climbing in Nepal


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International Pumori 7,161m. Expedition spring 2018

Mt Pumori Expedition

Mount Pumori Base Camp can be reached from Kathmandu - Lukla flight followed by trekking via Namche Bazaar, Thangboche - Pheriche and Lobuche. Mount Pumori is 7145m high and the ascent starts at an elevation of 5300m which is right beside a beautiful small lake. From here you can get a beautiful sight of Mt. Everest and Kalapathhar at 5545m.

Camp 1: After 3 hours walk you will reach Camp 1 or Advance Base Camp (ABC) 5700m. After that you will have to walk a distance of some 500m at an elevation of 40 to 65 degrees slopes. Mount Pumori has many rocks and mixed climb traverse, steep and exposed to the wind, narrow ridges, some ice walls, and also a tunnel climb. Sometimes you may need fixed ropes as well

Camp 2: It starts at 6200m. It is located on a narrow ridge; so there is no fear of avalanches. The next 400m, Is an ice climb with 35-65 degrees above-5000m high, is the Ice walls, many crevasses, and the bigger avalanche danger from big seracs hanging from the shoulder of 6500m.
Camp 3: It is too windy. At the height of 6850m, from where you can see Tibetan plateau; and you need rope here because of many crevasses and ice wall’s way to summit. After that there are two climbing ranges; one from Tibet side and other is from Nepal side. Between these 2 sides the Nepal side is easier to Mount Pumori Summit. After this walk, the Summit is easy to reach on its vertex Pumori 7145m.

Normal route: As you know the route to Mount Pumori is not easy as like several the other mountains, there are difficult technical parts in this route as well. We suggest to you to take aid from professional Sherpa climbers. They will not only guide you to reach the top of Pumori but also ensure your safety in all circumstances.

Have at least 3 more camps set after the base camp to reach the summit. The base camp is just above Gorek Shep at the altitude of 5300m. After the base camp, you can set up your first mission camp at the altitude of 5,650m, around the base of mount Pumori. Please set to the second camp at the ridge after the previous phase at the altitude of 6000m. The most technical part of this peak is around Camps 1 and 2. You should set Camp 3 at the altitude of 6480m, around the corner after the ridge.

You can ascend the summit of mount Pumori from Camp 3. Most climbers use this route every year for the expedition. South - West ridge: Only very few climbers have tried this route as it is a very difficult route. This route follows directly from the top of Kalapathar and goes straight over the ridge extending as much as 75 degree. As this route has a lot of technical difficulties, we suggest to you to use the normal route of mount Pumori so that your group will comfortably reach its Top. For more information please check The Himalayan Journal (1996) or American Alpine Journal (1997).

Mount Pumori Expedition Entry/Exit Lukla
16 April 2018

Pumori ExpeditionItinerary:

16 April 2018 Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu & transfer to Hotel
17 April 2018 Day 02: Prepare expedition in Kathmandu, Nepal
18 April 2018 Day 03: Expedition briefing in tourism department
19 April 2018 Day 04: Flight to Lukla trek  - Phakding and lodge
19 April 2018 Day 05: From Phakding to Namche lodge & lodge
20 April 2018 Day 06: Acclimatization in uphill village and lodge
21 April 2018 Day 07: From Namche -Thyanboche3800m.lodge
22 April 2018 Day 08: From Thyangboche  to Pheriche  & lodge
23 April 2018 Day 09: From  Pheriche  to Lobuche & stay lodge
24 April 2018 Day 10: Lobuche - Pumori base camp  – camping
25 April - 14 May 2018 Day 11-30 Climbing Mt. Pumori 7145m
15 May 2018 Day 31: From Pumori BC- Pangboche -Lodge
16 May 2018 Day 32: From Pangboche to Namche - Lodge
17 May 2018 Day 33: From Namche  to Lukla & say  Lodge
18 May 2018 Day 34: Fly Lukla-Kathmandu & transfer hotel
19 May 2018 Day 35: Transfer hotel to airport final departure

Cost (group joining basis)

A: 1 Person USD 12,500 using single Climbing Sherpa Guide
B: 2 Persons, per person USD 10,000 using 2 climber 1 climbing guide

Personal Bio Data

Cost Includes

  • Pumori Expedition4 night 3 star hotel in Kathmandu with bed and breakfast
  • Climbing Permit for mount Pumori 7145meter expedition 
  • Trekking will be lodges and expedition food in base camp
  • 1 BC guide, 1 cook, 1 cook helper and necessary porters 
  • 1 tent for 1 climber in Pumori base camp north face tents
  • Dining, toilet tent, Shower tent, table & chair, Mattresses
  • Solar Panel for light and batteries charges in base camp
  • 1 climber  = 1 climbing Sherpa guide (choose package A)
  • 2 climber = 1 climbing Sherpa guide (choose package B)
  • High tent for camp 1, 2,3 North face tent or similar brand
  • Fixed rope, main rope, Ice bar, sabel, Ice piton, Ice crew
  • Climbing food, gas, stove, cooking pot above base camp
  • Trekking: Lukla-Namche-Thyanboche-Pumori base camp
  • Kathmandu -  Lukla  –  Kathmandu  flight with 35kg cargo 
  • Porter/Yak from Lukla-Pumori base camp & back to Lukla
  • Expedition allowance, daily allowance for officer and staff
  • Life, medical & rescue insurance for Liaison officer & staff
  • Local transfer Airport -hotel -airport 3 times in Kathmandu
  • Welcome dinner with Nepali song & dance in Kathmandu

Cost Excludes

  • Lukla AirportPersonal equipment for climbing 
  • Lunch, dinner in Kathmandu 
  • Emergency Rescue evacuation
  • Tips for base camp staff expedition
  • Summit bonus for guide USD 700
  • Garbage deposit USD 3000 (sharing of the total person)  and  deposit  fee will be not
    refunded if the climber don’t take back their garbage to Namche Bazaar & Kathmandu

Previous Expeditions

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