Mount Thulagi 7059meter Expedition spring 2013

Kathmandu to Besisahar then continue to Sangey, Jagat Tal, and  5 days after, the base camp can be established at Thulagi at 3,800 meters on the true right bank of the Changlhi glacier. Down below Phungi (6,540m) can be seen. The track along the Dudha Khola has been difficult walking. After crossing it close to the Khasontu Khola, it takes 9 to 11 hours through dense forest and complex moraine to reach base camp. There is no water at this site, and every body should carry the water from the glacier.

 It can be traveled from the same line as the Japanese had done it along ago. A prominent snowy ice spur is there toward the right side of the northwest face, which we can climb towards the right flank. There are large hanging seracs on either side of the spur, generally making the route openly dangerous

Can be fixed an advanced base at 4,000m at the start of the seracs, and above there, the climbing route has been  crossed  through broken glacier, where there is a little snow and the slope is not steep. Above 5,000m the angle is creased to 40-50°’s elevation with much more snow.
On the upper slopes, the angle gradually is increased. Can be passed the Japanese high point and 4/5 days after leaving advanced base, you  reach at the ridge’s top of the face (ca 6,400m). From here you can descend down easily to a large plateau at 6,250m. This high-altitude plateau is the upper Thulagi glacier, which forms a sort of shoulder to the south west of Manaslu. It is bordered by the summits of Thulagi 7059m, and there can be seen Peak 29 (mount Ngadi Chuli, 7,871m), and of course, the mount Manaslu itself can be seen. It is very hard climbing route to Thulangi from South face. Monterosa treks and Expedition makes expedition itinerary for interested