Monterosa Treks &  Expedition

Muztagh-Ata (7546m) Expedition-2008 (PAISTAN)

 

The Father of Ice Mountains is the third highest mountain of the Western Kun-Lun. This two-headed icy giant is situated near Karakul Lake and the Karakoram Highway, the main road running from the city of Kashgar to Pakistan. Because of its juxtaposing (nearing) to the highway, the mountain is easily approached and attracts many climbers. The easiest and extremely famous climbing route is from the west along the gentle snow slopes. This route has no technical difficulties but is hard enough because of the very high altitude. For the successful ascent of Muztagh-Ata mountaineers should be in very good physical conditions, well acclimatized and have a basic climbing experience.

Itineary

Best period for climbing:   July - August

20 July 2008 Day 01 Islamabad  Arrive Islamabad. Transfer to hotel.
Islamabad, situated at the foot of Marghalla Hills is the modern City and Capital of Pakistan. The city was carefully planned and drawn up by Greek architects in the early 60s.With its wide boulevards, vistas, greenery and fountains; Islamabad is quite a pleasant city. Worth seeing places are: Shah Fiasal Mosque, National Institute of Folk and Traditional Heritage, Pakistan Museum of Natural History, Islamabad Museum, Daman – e – Koh and Rawal Lake. The-adjoining Rawalpindi is an old city, which has been the path of many invaders to south Asia. The British seized it in 1849 and made it their largest Army cantonment. Today it’s a lively, and bustling city with colorful and crowded bazaars offering varieties of shopping opportunities. It shares an International Airport, Railway Station and Bus Terminal with Islamabad.

21 July 2008 Day 02  Drive to Chilas 485 km (10-11 hrs). O/N hotel.
Driving on the KKH is no less exciting. The KKH is one of the most panoramic  
roads and the world’s highest metalled border crossing. It connects Pakistan and China stretching over a distance of 1300 km between Islamabad and Kashgar winding through three mountain ranges and following the antic Silk route along the Indus valley to the Chinese border at Khunjerab pass. We pass through the historical town of Taxila, beautiful hill Station of Abbottabad, lush green towns of Mansehra, Shinkiari and finally meet the great Indus on Thakot Bridge. From there onward the road snails along the bank of Indus with grandeur landscape around each turn and we pass through, Besham, Dassu, Komila, Shatial and Chilas with many rocks carving and inscriptions along the way left by Chinese pilgrims and ancient Travelers. Out of these sites Chilas and Shatial are easily approachable and most of them are from 5th century AD. Overnight at hotel.

22 July 2008 Day 03  Drive to Karimabad from Chilas 275km (6-7hrs).
We will stop on a viewpoint at Thalichi to take the scene of Nanga Parbat. From this face it was climbed on 3rd July 1953 by Austrian climber Hermann Bhul. It is a nice spot to take picture in combination with Indus and the Nanga Parbat in silhouette. We cross the Indus River at Raikot Bridge and follow the West bank up to the Gilgit. From Jagloot we can have a close View of the confluence of the Indus and the Gilgit rivers as well as the junction of the three mightiest ranges of Himalaya, Karakorum and Hindukush.

Hunza is a gateway to China and Central Asia. Buddhism first reached China through the Hunza valley around 200 A. D. It is Shangrilla of “Hilton’s Lost Horizons”. This scenic valley extends along the West bank of Hunza River 110km North of Gilgit providing rare views of a very spectacular mountain panorama and is a starting point for climbers, trekkers, presenting great options for day hikers, sightseeing and differentiated cultural activities. En route stop at Rakaposhi viewpoint, from where you will have magnificent views of Rakaposhi Mountain (one of the most beautiful and 29th highest peak in the world). Overnight at hotel.

23 July 2008 Day 04  Trek to Ultar B.C. (3300m) for Acclimatization.  Meals and overnight at camp.

24 July 2008 Day 05 Trek further up to the altitude of around 4500m and trek down to Karimabad and drive to Sust. Meals and overnight at hotel.

25 July 2008 Day 06: Arrive at Tashkorgan over the Khunjerab pass, met by our guide and vehicle to transfer to Hotel at Tashkorgan.  O/n Pamir hotel or similar Dinner at hotel

26 July 2008  Day 07: Breakfast at Hotel then drive to Subash (86kms) where our camels waiting. After packing, start the trek to BC (five hours). Set up at BC.

27 July – 10 August 2008 Day 08- 22:  15 days for acclimatization and climbing.
Base camp is at an altitude of nearly 4,350m (14,500ft) so time is needed for adaptation to the altitude. This grassy site is tucked in between a moraine and the foot of the steeper slopes of the mountain - a great place to relax now, and recover later. This is the time to enjoy some excellent fresh food the base camp staff.
The team splits up into two groups: skiers and those on foot. All equipment and food receives final checks and each group prepares loads for carrying up the mountain. We use three camps above base camp.
The first camp is likely to be close to the snow line. In this case we will use pack animals to transport all expedition supplies to Camp 1. Above this point all team members will need to take part in load carrying between camps. In addition to putting the necessary supplies in place, this also provides essential acclimatization and fitness for the summit attempt.

Camp 1
is at about 5,350m: a steep, stony ascent from base camp and right on the edge of the glaciers that blanket the upper 2,000m of the mountain. from camp 1, the route is a steady ascent up a snowy and sometimes icy slope, through an area of crevasses and then leading a small valley in the glacier, this is the steepest part of the whole route.  Above the 'valley', a long and perennial ascent leads up to the site of camp 2, a small shelf in the glacier at about 6,100m. There will mostly be 2 or 3 ascents to camp 2, carrying loads for this camp and the one above. This is great for acclimatization and great for the skiers as there is an 800m run back to camp 1 with an empty sac. It is possible to fix a camp probably anywhere on the upper part of the mountain. The choice of where to site camps will be made by the leaders taking into account according the conditions and the activities of other parties on the mountain. In recent years, the next camp has been placed at 6,450m, Camp 2 and a half.
rotationally, teams may use a camp 3 at 6,800m. Issues such as: acclimatization, load carrying, snow conditions, sleeping comfort and average group speed will be taken into the situation  when decide to the approach of the trip. The route to the summit is straightforward; from 6,800m-7,400m a long, gradual slope slowly eases becoming gentler and gentler slowly . Finally, persists with the ground appearing almost the level, the small rise to the summit rocks appears.
11 August 2008 Day 23: Camel Trek Back to Subash then drive to Kashgar after the lunch at Karakul lake. O/n Seman Hotel. Dinner.

12 August 2008 Day 24: Full day visit at Kashgar including Abak Hoja Mausoleum, Mosque,
Old streets and Bazaar. Breakfast and lunch at Hotel. Dinner is the banquet for
celebrating. O/n Same.

13 August 2008 Day 25: Breakfast at Hotel, drive to Tashkorgan with picnic lunch at
Bulunkul area. O/n Pamir hotel or similar. Dinner at Hotel.

14 August 2008 Day26: Breakfast at Hotel. Drive to Sost and continue to Karimabad after clearing the   immigration and Customs. Picnic lunch in box.

15 August 2008 Day 27:  Free day in Karimabad. Meals and overnight at hotel.

16 August 2008 Day 28: Drive to Besham 485km (10-12 hrs). Meals and overnight at hotel.

17 August 2008 Day 29: Complete road journey from Besham to Islamabad 275km (6-7 hrs). Meals and overnight at hotel.

18 August 2008 Day 30: Transfer to airport for your homebound flight.

(Please get double entry visa for Pakistan.)

Cost:
08-09 pax @US$ 3500 per person on twin sharing
05-07 pax @US$ 4000 per person on twin sharing
02-04 pax @US$ 4500 per person on twin sharing
Single supplement US$ 295 per single.

SERVICES INCLUD IN PAKISTAN:

  1. Airport transfers, transport from Islamabad to Sost, Tashkorgan and Sost to Islamabad.
  2. Hotel accommodation at Chancery Guest House (ISB), Panorama Hotel (Chilas), Baltit Inn (Hunza), PTDC Motel (Sost) and PTDC Motel (Besham) with all meals.
  3. Meals during trek.
  4. Services of English Speaking guide, cook and low altitude porters.
  5. 15 kg of personal baggage during trek.
  6. Sleeping tents, mattresses, kitchen tent, toilet tent and mess tent with tables/field stools and camping ground fees.
  7. Kitchen equipment, crockery, cutlery, fuel and related community gear.
  8. Wages of guide and cook .
  9. Porterage at airports, hotels, toll taxes and parking fee etc.

SERVICE NOT INCLUD IN PAKISTAN:

  1. International airfare and airport tax. Excess baggage.
  2. Medications ground evacuations and helicopter rescue charges of any kind.
  3. Room services, laundry charges, beverages, telephone calls and items of personal nature.
  4. Phone/communication bills.
  5. Insurance liability of any member(s) and other under force majeure conditions. 
  6. Custom clearing and forwarding agent's charges. 
  7. Visa fee.

Cost includes in China:
Twin share hotel accommodation as per program, ESG, full board meals both in town and at the BC, cook with kitchen and cooking equipments, air-con vehicle for all transfers and separate luggage van for groups over 6 person, camels up to BC and down from BC, climbing permit fee, environment protection fee, mess tent, kitchen tent, sleeping tent (only to use at BC, not for camp one +), mattresses, Custom clearance fee etc.

Cost doesn’t include in China:
High altitude food, high altitude porters (available at BC but need to deal with local Kyrgyz nomads. Our guide my assist by request), medical aid, insurance, climbing equipments, skiing equipments, private expanses and tips etc.

Notes: Above is the standard Muztaghata program. If there are some extending on the program due to bad weather or any other reasons, two days can be extended as complimentary then from the 3rd day of extending, we charge team members $18p/p for per day meals and $30perday/group for the guide. That is all for extension.

Our guide and cook serve the group at BC only. For carrying equipments to higher camps, team leader deal with local nomads with the help of our guide. Goods carried by donkeys at below cost.

BC to Camp one: $3 for 01kg.
Camp01 to Camp2: $07 - $10 for 01kg.
Camp02 to Camp3: $15 - $20 for 01kg.

REFUND:

  1. If the cancellation is made 30 days + prior to departure full payment will be refunded and a nominal communication service charge will be deducted.
  2. NSE reserves the right to deduct:
  3. 25% cancellation charge from paid package price if the cancellation is made in less than 25 days of arrival date.
  4. 40% in case of cancellation in less than 10 days.
  5. In case of cancellation prior to arrival, all charges in respect of confirmed bookings that entail no-show charges by hotels/transport/airline will have to be paid by the clients.
  6. Anyone deciding to abandon the trip after arrival or leave during the trip for whatever reason(s) whether the clients own or external (of the nature of force majeure) will not be eligible for a refund. This also applies in case the entire group completes/abandons the trip and decides to return earlier than the agreed time schedule.
  7. Nominal communication service charge will also be deducted from the refund.
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