Nanga Parbat Diamir Face (8125m) Expedition-2008 (Pakistan)

Nanga Parbat, in Sanskrit language for “Nude Mountain” is so named because some of its slopes are so steep that they are bereft of vegetation and snow. According to the local old legend, Nanga Parbat is also called Diamir, which means abode of fairies. It is believed that the Queen of fairies lives there in a castle made of solid crystal-clear ice, which is guarded by gigantic snow serpents and frogs. The earlier disasters in climbing this mountain are attributed to the displeasure of fairies. Nanga Parbat is not a single peak but consists of 20km long series of peaks and ridges culminating in an ice crest of (8125m). Its South Face known as Rupal Face is (5000m) high, while the North or Raikot Face plunging over (7000m) from the summit to the Indus forms one of the world’s deepest gorge. This expedition takes us to the West Side, which is known as Diamir Face.

Nanga Parbat is the second highest mountain of Pakistan and ninth highest in the world. It in not part of the Karakoram. It is separated from the Karakoram by the mighty Indus River. Since the first disastrous British expedition led by A. F. Mummery in 1895 A.D., mountaineers have tried to ascent its summit through different routes but few lucky ones have succeeded. In 1934 four German climbers and 6 porters perished in a storm. In 1937 disaster 18 Sherpas and 12 climbers were buried alive by avalanche that covered their camp. In fact Nanga Parbat has claimed more lives than any other 8000ers relative to the number of attempts, hence it is named as the frightening nickname of Killer Mountain. It was first climbed in 1953 A.D. by a joint Austrian – German Expedition. Hermann Buhl made the final ascent in a hard 41 hours solo ordeal without oxygen. Italian mountaineer Reinhold Messner climbed the south face (Rupal Face) with his brother Gunther in 1970, descending by the Diamir face, where Gunther lost his life in an adventure.

Trip Itinerary

01 June 2008 Day 01 Islamabad
Arrive Islamabad. Transfer to hotel for overnight.

02 June 2008 Day 02 Islamabad
Welcome reception at Alpine Club of Pakistan. Overnight at hotel.
Islamabad, situated at the foot of Marghalla Hills is the modern City and Capital of Pakistan. The city was carefully planned and drawn up by Greek architects in the early 60s.With its wide boulevards, vistas, greenery and fountains; Islamabad is quite a pleasant city. The-adjoining city of Rawalpindi is an old city, which has been the path of many invaders to south Asia.The British captured it in 1849 and made it their largest Army cantonment. Today it’s a lively and bustling city with colorful and crowded bazaars offering varieties of shopping opportunities. It shares an International Airport, Railway Station and Bus Terminal with Islamabad. Despite being old city, Rawalpindi doesn’t have any significant historical monument. However, at a distance of just 35km, the neighboring town of Taxila is of great historical values. Time permitting a half-day sightseeing of Taxila ruins and Archeological site as well as Museum would be worth its while. Alexander the Great conquered it in 327 BC and the city progressed under Mayuryans, and the great Kushan Kings. Under the most famous Kushan King, Kanishka, Taxila became a great center of the Gandhara Art, culture and Buddhist “ Holy land” and a center of learning.

03 June 2008 Day 03 Chilas
Drive by coach to Chilas (480km) on Karakoram Highway. Overnight at hotel.
The journey on the Karakoram Highway is most adventurous and thrilling. It is a monument to the engineering feast and one of the most spectacular roads and the world’s highest metalled border crossing. It connects Pakistan and China spreading over a distance of 1300km between Islamabad and Kashgar, winding through three mountain ranges and following the ancient Silk route along the Indus Valley to the Chinese border at Khunjerab Pass. We pass through the historical town of Taxila, beautiful hill station of Abbottabad, lush green towns of Mansehra, Shinkiari and finally meet the great Indus on Thakot Bridge. From there onward the road snails along the bank of the Indus with contrasting landscape after every two kilometers. We pass through Besham, Dassu, Komila and Shatial to arrive at Chilas with many rocks carving and inscriptions along the way left by Chinese pilgrims and ancient travelers of 5th century A.D.

04 June 2008 Day 04 Diamoroi
From Chilas it takes about 30 minutes driving to Bunar Daas. Another 15 minutes drive will take us to the channel. From the channel we will trek up the Bunar River to Diamoroi Village, which will take about 4 – 6 hours. Overnight in tent.

05 June 2008 Day 05 Diamir Base Camp (4100m)
From Diamoroi to Kutagali (3500m) it is 5 hours steep climbing up along ariverside. The route goes through birch woods and high rock faces. Kutagali is shepherd’s settlement. After lunch and rest we will continue our climbing up the valley to the Diamir Glacier. After about 2 to 3 hours we will reach Diamir Base Camp (4100 meters). The first British A. F. Mummery disappeared on the Diamir Glacier in 1895. As already mentioned Reinhold Messner lost his brother Gunther descending through Diamir Face after their victorious climbing through Rupal Face in 1970. It is this side of Nanga Parbat that most climbers want to attempt. To the left of this face is Kinshofer route named after the German climber Tony Kinshofer who alongwith his team climbed Nanga Parbat through this route for the first time in 1962. This was the second ascent of Nanga Parbat after Austrian climber Herman Bhul’s successful ascent in 1953. On the right side there is Messner route. Overnight at camp.

06 June - 05 August 2008 Day 06 – 40 days 35 for acclimatization and climbing.

06 August 2008 Day 41 Return to Diamoroi. Overnight at camp.

07 August 2008 Day 42 Return to Bunar and drive to Chilas. Overnight at hotel.

08 August 2008 Day 43 Islamabad
Drive on KKH to Islamabad. Overnight at hotel

09 August 2008 Day 44 Farewell meeting at Alpine Club of Pakistan. Overnight at hotel.

10 August 2008 Day 45 Fly out Transfer to airport for your return homebound flight.

Cost:

	2 pax	3 pax	4pax	5 pax	6 pax	7 pax	8 pax	9 pax
Royalty fee	$ 2250	$1500	$ 1125	$ 900	$ 750	$ 843	$ 657	$ 667
Pollution fee	$ 100	$ 67	$ 50	$ 40	$ 34	$ 29	$ 25	$ 23
Expedition package	$ 6000	$ 5000	$ 4500	$ 4200	$ 4000	$ 3700	$ 3500	$ 3200
Total	$ 8350	$ 6567	$ 5675	$ 5140	$ 4784	$ 4572	$ 4182	$ 3890

SERVICES INCLUD:

Liaison with Ministry of Tourism in Islamabad for process of climbing permit.
Process of import/export permit from Ministry of Tourism.
Assistance upon arrival/departure.
Welcome reception/farewell meeting at Alpine Club of Pakistan.
Hotel accommodation at Chancery Guesthouse (Islamabad), Panorama Hotel (Chilas) with all meals.
All meals during trek and 35 days at BC.
Porterage of 75 kg per person of expedition equipment and high altitude food etc. to the B.C and 50 kg per person on return from BC respectively.
Airport/road transfers and within the city as per itinerary.
Sleeping tents, mattresses, mess, kitchen and toilet tent with tables/field stools and camping ground fees.
Kitchen equipment, crockery, cutlery, fuel and related community gear.
Wages and basic kit of guide, sirdar, cook and assistant(s).
Insurance of our field staff and low altitude porters. No insurance company in Pakistan provides insurance for Pakistani staff for rescue except compensation in case of death.
Porterage at airports, hotels, toll taxes and parking fee etc.
Letter of guarantee on behalf of team/client for environmental bond for USD 1000.
Mail handling/forwarding to BC/overseas except postage charges.
Reconfirmation of air tickets.
Above quotation is based on present porter rates and valid for 2008.
Any other service not mentioned in this condition sheet.

NOT INCLUDED:

Airport tax, excess baggage charges.
High altitude porters/any crew above BC.
Tents, sleeping bags, personal and climbing equipment of any kind beyond base camp including high altitude food and oxygen.
Medications, ground evacuations and helicopter rescue charges of any kind.
Room services, laundry, beverages, phone/communication bills and items of personal nature.
Insurance liability of member(s) and other under force majeure conditions.
Permit, Pollution fee (US$ 200 non refundable) and Environmental fee or any other fee required to be paid by the Government of Pakistan.
Clearance of cargo and handling agent’s charges before arrival of the team and its storage.
Hiring of HAPs, mail runner(s) and any other crew as per requirement. (wages and kit to be arranged by the team).
Tips to field staff, drivers and porters.

REFUND:

If the cancellation is made 30 days + prior to departure full payment will be refunded and a nominal communication service charge will be deducted.
NSE reserves the right to deduct:
25% cancellation charge from paid package price if the cancellation is made in less than 25 days of arrival date.
40% in case of cancellation in less than 10 days.
In case of cancellation prior to arrival, all charges in respect of confirmed bookings that entail no-show charges by hotels/transport/airline will have to be paid by the clients.
Anyone deciding to abandon the trip after arrival or leave during the trip for whatever reason(s) whether the clients own or external (of the nature of force majeure) will not be eligible for a refund. This also applies in case the entire group completes/abandons the trip and decides to return earlier than the agreed time schedule.
Nominal communication service charge will also be deducted from the refund.

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