Mount Lhakpa Ri 7045m. (Xang Dong Feng) Expedition autumn

Fixed Departure
07 September 2012

Mount Lhakpa Ri is the newly becoming famous expedition in Tibet; and many climbers have been attracted these days to this mountain climbing through Tibet side. It divides the upper east Rombuk and Kharta glacier. It is very close to Mount Everest and one feels him as equal to be climbed Mount Everest the moment, he reaches on the top of this mountain.

It was first climb by George Mallory who was on his way to the Everest Reconnaissance in 1921; and he had seen its North Col. Bill Tilman made the second ascent during his Everest reconnaissance in 1936. The Third ascent was made by French Everest Summiteers Michelle Pelle in 1988. The Fourth ascent by Ken Mc Connell in 1999 The present expedition teams are also using these same routes as the previous four expedition teams had used in the past.

The Expedition starts from Kathmandu- Zhangmu – Nyalam - Tingri and Everest Base Camp (Lhakpa RI Base camp) 5200m. After that you have to spend a few days for acclimatization. After this base camp, you should start your expedition ahead towards the Middle camp 5780m, with the preparation of loading yaks and expedition crews. Then you have to take a night's rest in this middle camp. Continuing ahead to this track you reach at the Advance Base camp, which is situated at the height of 6400m.

After this point, you may feel some altitude sickness; and in case of this you should take a couple of day's rest there. After that climbing up ahead you reach almost at the level of East Rombuk Glacier to the Rophu La from where fantastic views of mount Makalu & mount Kanchanjunga are seen. Then you get a good look of your route up to the mount Lhakpa Ri.

From ABC, start early in the morning; and you should go crossing the Rongbuk glacier. There are few crevasses and slopes from the Rongbuk and Kharta glacier and they are relatively low angled which are linked by the Lhak Pa pass 6848m; and it is just to the North of Lhakpa Ri until you reach at the very foot of the slope, leading to you to the North ridge of the Summit, the routes are 20 –30 degrees vertical elevations. This route to climb is not so hard but the vertical way is very long. You have use main rope with the group of 4-6 climbers at this time here. Following the way of the North ridge on the other side you see Kharta glacier and the views of North Col of Everest. The same way of the ridge leads up to the Summit of Lhakpa Ri. From the mount Lhakpa Ri, a very beautiful views of above the 8000m. High Mountains are envisioned; and also the good panoramic views of small mountains down below there can be seen.

After reaching the summits, on your way back you can choose the different route to get down via Lhasa the capital of old city of Tibet. And this new route may give you another enthusiastic and charming feeing inside.