International Cho Oyu 8201m Expedition autumn 2012

Fixed Departure
30 August 2012

Mount Cho Oyu 8201m. the 6th  Highest Peak in the world
Austrians first climbed Mount Cho Oyu in 1954. The Indian and German team also climbed this peak in 1958 and 1964 respectively. Till to date many expedition teams have successfully reached on its summit. The year 2004 was regarded as the Golden jubilee of this ' Cho Oyu Mountain.' The golden jubilee ceremony was organized by Nepal Mountaineering Association with grand fanfare and jubilantly. There were about 400 climbers from different region of the World during this golden jubilee ceremony and most of them made the summit success.

Most of the Cho Oyu expedition teams climb from Tibet side due the easy climbing technique route from there. Since 1998, our company "Monterosa Treks and Expedition" is also conducting the expedition from Tibet side.

Meeting and climbing information: Mount Cho Oyu expedition begins after your arrival to Kathmandu where you meet our staffs of Monterosa Treks & Expedition in the airport and transfer you to hotel. Next day, we make introduction section with other climbing members & Expedition crews. Since then we make your Tibet visa and other necessary document for Cho Oyu Expedition.

After 3 day, we drive you towards Nepal-Tibet border up to the Friendship Bridge through Arnico Highway; where the Chinese liaison officer and Chinese transportation meet us there. The expedition gears go by truck but the members there Travel by Land cruiser 4wd or with comfortable Minibus. We take time to acclimatize for one night at Zhangmu (2300m) and two nights at Nylam (3750m).

Next day we drive to Tingri (4350m) where we spend further two nights to acclimatizing. Then we drive Tingri to Base camp 5000m along the rough way with jerking & bouncing experience through grassy plain which leads up to the Chinese base camp.

We set up our camp at Chinese Base Camp and stay two nights or more, which depends on the feeling of our members. We also make schedules of the yaks by that time. Base camp is a temporary but comfortable with our Nepali cook and dining tent. Now the two-day walk towards the advance base camp (ABC) begins.

Mount Cho Oyu Summit ABC is in the heart of the Himalayas at 5700m; surrounded by celestial peaks. There is also the high pass called Nangpa La nearby which, an old but still used yak track trading route between Nepal and Tibet exists.

From ABC, we can see the superb scene of mount Cho Oyu. This is the main base camp and we plan to stay there for the longer duration also to look the favorable situation for the expedition. Every person gets his or her own tent. Our Service will be full board up to ABC and after that the climbers should manage all services by themselves privately. From ABC it is several hours of tough walking on a vague path over moraine-covered glacier to the start of the mountaineering properly.

Camp 1 is either situated on some ridge at 6400m and the real mountaineering starts from here. The ridge is now soft and easy enough for climbing, then it broadens out and you should climb successive huge steps, several of which probably require fixing a rope up there. You should fix a new rope in co-operation with other members on the mountain. Normally one rope is used for ascent and another for descent, although the route is crevassed but normally these create no problem.

Mount Cho Oyu Panorama from Summit Camp 2 is on the edge of a large plateau at 7125m although you can carefully assess to put the rope where. Depending on your conditions and fitness you may attempt the summit from here, or you may establish a light Camp 3 across the plateau and up on a minor ridge at 7550m. Above Camp 3, there are two rocky steps where you should fix another set of ropes prior to our summit ascent.

Finally, you will start early in the morning from camp 3 for summit. Above the rock bands, the slopes are still steep and you may take a line to fix there, depending on conditions, however once on the crest of this ridge the terrain is straightforward along a long haul to the summit plateau.
The panorama is breathtakingly magnificent, including Mount Everest 8848m, mount Lhotse 8501m, mount Nuptse 7855m, mount Chamlang 7319m, mount Ama Dablam 6856m and other peaks of the Everest region to the east and south. To the west, there are the mount Melungtse and mount Gauri Sankar massifs and to the north, there is all Tibet area. It is normal to descend to Camp 2 from summit and to continue down to the ABC.

Legend
Regarding to the name of this mount Cho Oyu, the legend says, in Tibetan language, Chomo means the goddess and Yu means the turquoise. So adding these two words, it was called Cho Oyu . Also it is called the "Turquoise Goddess" as per the Tibetan dialect. Another derivation of the name to this is called it as the bald god as well.

Climbing Sherpa for Himalayan:

We facilitate highly professional climbing Sherpa guides, very well trained and qualified climbing Sherpas for your expeditions. Many climbers avoid Sherpa guides for the climbing, so because of this, they have been found to facing many hindrances on their way. If willing to take climbing Sherpas guide along with you on the any expedition, they are very useful in your each and every step to support, which makes your climbing easier and comfortable. Most of the groups, who have gone with the Sherpa guides on the expedition, are found to be succeeded for make top as per our past experiences. So we suggest you to operate your expeditions along with the Sherpa guides in climbing Himalayas.